How to Grow Okro (***Hibiscus* *esculentus)*** for Maximum Yield and Harvest.

Okra is also referred to as okro, and it is an annual crop growing about 2 to 4 metres tall

The botanical name is Hibiscus esculentus or Abelmoschus esculentus

The fruits are called capsules.

The common varieties are;

The long finger-like variety
The short, rounded base variety
The blunt-apex variety

Climatic and soil requirements

It is a warm-season crop, and the yield depends on the amount of rainfall and its distribution.
The crop can withstand extremely hot temperatures.
It grows well on any soil except heavy clays.

Land preparation

Deep cultivation with plenty of organic manure.
Raised beds or on flats.

Method of propagation

Okra seeds are sown directly on raised beds or on flat land.
Okra is always sown in rows.
The spacing is between 50 to 60cm between rows and 35 to 45cm between plants.
Spacing depends on the variety.
Three or four seeds should be sown at a depth of 2 to 2.5 cm in each planting hole.
The seeds germinate in 8 to 10 days.

Cultural practices

Okra needs the application of fertilizer high in phosphorus before planting.
An additional application is beneficial at the time pods begin to form.
A fertilizer high in nitrogen should not be used, as this stimulates vegetative growth and reduces the number of pods produced.
Regular hoeing or weeding is required.
Regular watering is required up to the fruiting stage if rainfall is insufficient to maintain vigorous growth.
Thinning out is done when the seedlings are 10-12 cm high.
Thus, the strongest seedlings of each group should be left and the others carefully removed.
Mulching is essential.

Pests that affect okra

Cotton leaf caterpillar, which feeds on and kills seedlings, strips leaves of older plants, and damages pods. This pest is controlled with cypermethrin or carbaryl
Flea beetles: These insects attack the plants and eat up the leaves, putting holes in the leaves as they eat them. It can be controlled by spraying with recommended insecticides.
Cricket and grasshopper: These insects also defoliate the plant by eating up the leaves and young stems. It is controlled by spraying with recommended insecticides.

Disease of okra

Powdery mildew, which is characterised by powdery areas usually on upper leaf surfaces only, and on older leaves first. This disease is controlled with Dinocap and thiabendazole.

Root knot disease: It is caused by the eelworm nematode, which is found in the soil. Symptoms include knotting or galling of roots, retarded growth, and reduced yield.

It can be controlled by;

practicing crop rotation.
use of resistant varieties;
soil treatment with nematicide, e.g., Nemagon.

Mosaic disease: It is caused by a virus that is transmitted by piercing and sucking insects. Symptoms include mosaic colouration on the leaves, leading to low yield of the crop.

Control by:

Spray with the recommended insecticide to kill the vector
Uproot and burn infected plants.

Fungal disease, such as powdery mildew and black leaf mould, attacks both the leaves and fruit of okro.

Control by;

Clean husbandry,
Crop rotation,
Fungicides such as Benomyl and Dinocap.

How to Harvest okro

Pods become mature 40 to 90 days from sowing.
Best to harvest pods 3 to 6 days after the flower has opened, when pods are young and non-fibrous.
Pods are harvested by cutting them from the plant with a knife.
They are harvested every other day, but it depends on the farmer and variety.

Storage of okro

Whole pods or sliced pods may be stored for several days in an airtight plastic bag in the refrigerator.
Pods could be sliced and dried.
Market fresh after harvesting, or pods sliced and dried before selling.
May be sold locally or exported.